"Front-wheel-drive race cars, on the other hand, are often set up with a bit of toe-out, as this induces a bit of oversteer to counteract the greater tendency of front-wheel-drive cars to understeer."
"Race cars, in contrast, are fitted with steel spherical bearings or very hard urethane, metal or plastic bushings to provide optimum rigidity and control of suspension links. Thus, a street car requires a greater static toe-in than does a race car, so as to avoid the condition wherein bushing compliance allows the wheels to assume a toe-out condition."
"The best way to determine the proper camber for competition is to measure the temperature profile across the tire tread immediately after completing some hot laps. In general, it's desirable to have the inboard edge of the tire slightly hotter than the outboard edge. "
well I took my car in to Firestone today to get a nail in my tire fixed and I also got their free alignment check. I was pretty pleased with the results. I improved the alignment apparatus by connecting the front and back posts with 2x4's and using some no stretch fishing line to measure off of.
As you can see the toe is out of spec but i measured it at zero at home and it shows zero total toe in the front so home alignement is definatley possible for us now. I took a test drive with the zero toe down the interstate to if there would be any bumpsteer. It was really stable didnt notice any swerving over bumps but could kinda tell there was a difference when i went over bumps. After that I took it to the "track". Really noticed the difference there. It's probably a combination of the new tie rod ends and the zero toe but it feels a lot more stable in the turns now. When it gets to the edge of grip it doesn't vear off like it did before but smoothly slides and feels alot more controllable.
The other thing I got from that alignment sheet is that theres something wierd with the right rear wheel. The camber is less than spec (which seems like its alot for the street). Thats the shock that is in backwards and also the corner that creaks. So it looks like me and the mad scientist are going to have to rip out that shock again and flip it around. The front camber looks good though a little more than spec but not too much. I'm glad that the home alignment worked out because I don't want to sit in any more waiting rooms.
Thats awesome! Glad to see that worked out. I'll have to take a look at your alignment jig. If there are no problems with stability, the zero toe sounds nice for turn in and steering responsivness....how much camber are you running? must be nice to have adjustable settings......and negative camber
Spec for the front is 0 to -.8 rear is -1.2 to -1.8
that -.8 seems wierd though. its less camber than spec. I think its either the shock thats installed backwards like I said before or the guy did something wrong when he put the stop sign looking thing on. Most likely its the shock.
and you've got the same adjustments I have except I believe you need shims to adjust your rear toe
i dunno, we'll have to look at my alignment over the break too....i've never had it aligned. I'd like to know what its at, and to play with it a little.
I'm pretty sure it will be different than stock since you lowered it. either more or less toe in depending on which way your tie rods moved and you should have some camber in the front. I never realized how much affect lowering a car has. it changes the roll center, the spring rates, and in most cars the toe, camber and castor
oh yea. the mad scientist was working so I pulled off the shock and flipped it around. That fixed the creak that I always heard and I tried measuring the camber but I did it in the driveway so that will throw the measurement off. But I got -1.4 for the RR and -1.8 for the RL. The left rear is definatley inaccurate because it was dark and I could hardly see the ruler