So most of you know that i am switching to mega squirt. But when i go to google and try to search it I just get porn, lol not that i mind but i am wanting to learn about how to use the system not jerk off. So if anybody can post up some info that would be helpful for me to read please do. I am also very bad at searching up info on things so that is another reason why i am posting this.
thefastestcorneringcarhere wrote: So most of you know i go to google and get porn, lol not that i mind but i am wanting to learn how to jerk off. So if anybody can post up some info that would be helpful for me to read please do. I am also very bad at searching up info on things so that is another reason why i am posting this.
I love the internet. The only problem that I remeber people having with the 20v and MS is trying to get the VVT to work out. If I remember correctly, it engages like around 4 and disengages around 7. So you dont really need it, its just there for more midrange, but I think its going to hurt the normal driveability of the car. On the other hand, I havent been paying too much attention to the MS boards or anything on 20v tuning so I could be tottaly wrong.
-- Edited by Raoul Duke at 00:17, 2006-04-03
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Hang on Lou, why don't you ask your little girlfriend what she thinks about megasquirt? Or wait, is she old enough to have gone through sex ed yet? or are you going to have to tell her about the birds and the bees?
ian, funny you bring that up, in MSnS2, there are rpm triggers, awesome, VVT. however, there was someone in tampa, i dont particularily care for the guy, but he put MSn Edis on his blacktop 20v, and dynoed 155 at the wheels, ahem, with VVT totally disengaged. VVT is not the high horsepower creator that some people think it is, what it does is fatten up the midrange, lou you should be able to notice this. when your engine is cold it WILL not engage the vvt, for obvious reasons, and the car should feel much slower, even if you put your foot into it, the computer will not let the solenoid click over. but, do this, warm the car up, then disconnect the solenoid, go drive, yah, you might notice a wheeny little difference, but not a whole lot. and with a good tune, that difference will dissappear and then be eclipsed by the new power you will make. is the VVT required? not really, would it be neat to have? sure, why not, but it is not totally necessary. this is why TODA cam gears for the 20v have no provision for VVT, for a stock motor, it's a great power booster, makes the car civil just scooting around, but when you want to go, it helps the car come alive, sort of like TVIS does on the 16v. but when you start to get into it, it's neat and all, but give me a solid set of TODA gears, get rid of that annoying as hell VVT gear knock, and still make good power through GOOD tuning. feel free to pick my brain for any other useless 20v info. maybe the new car will get 5 valves per piston after all
EDIS would be a simpler install and less chance of problems but with the EDIS you cant go below 10deg advance. with the distributor you can use any timing which means you could setup the soft rev limiter, get better launch control/flat shift and shoot big flames out your exhaust. it'll probably cost the same either way cause the edis stuff is about $50
Man OK were do i begin. First thank you to Jamin for last night for fixing my exhaust. I really dont know were to begin this is just a lot of info to take in at once.
Steve I did take off the VVT last night and drove around. I really didnt get a chance to go through all the gears though. I really didnt get a chance to take it up to 7Krpm. I will do so after work tonight and take the highway home. I just know the car felt a lot slower to me. The only problem is that I am doing this on a budget that is why i got maced in the face for the wiring harness. So TODA cams would be nice but i just cant afford them at this time and probably not for long time. I just dont think the car is the same with out it. But i guess it can be done.
Jon, thanks for all the info i havent had a chance to read it yet but i am going to, do you think it is better to run the edis or just leave it with what i have. I know for a fact that as soon as i get done reading all that info i am just gonna be confused. So if you can just kinda lead me in a better direction that would be great. I am just right know super lost cause there are so many options and different ways to do this whole thing, I am really looking for the most cost effective way to do this whole thing.
Once again if anybody has any useful info on this please post it up. That is it for know.......
i'd say you wanna use your stock dizzy setup cuz only going down to 10deg is annoying. The rev limiter doesnt work well, and you dont pour out a flame under decel.....ghey.
you ever see a racecar and when it downshifts it shoots a flame for a few seconds?? your car could do that with your stock distributor.
plus, i think it would be a cleaner install......and your trigger wheel wont fly off and ruin your car....and you wont have to talk to bums
i agree about not going with edis and the trigger wheel. In matter of fact i think jon is trying to get rid of the edis and trigger wheel setup. I personally don't know too much about megasquirt, but it is definately worth the money over some piggyback system like SAFC and etc.
jamin is right, you go to stand alone..... you might be on the curb standing alone waiting on triple a, ooooooo. why go stand alone?, car runs good. many hours and dyno runs are needing to perfect a stand alone anyways which means money and time. it is what it is.
its a standalone ecu which means it completely replaces the stock ecu in terms of running the engine. it controls how long the injectors stay open and when the spark plugs fire and possibly a few other things if you want.
now lets go over a few terms you might hear v2.2 board - this is version 2.2 of the actual circuit board(pretty green thing with electronic looking stuff atatched to it) most people use this version v3.0 board - this is the newest version of the board its more updated with better features MSnSextra - refers to the actual code(lines of numbers and letters that make equations to operate your engine) that is programmed into the processor on the megasquirt circuit board. Ex: 024s9 MegaTune - program(mythical creature that lives on your computer) that is used to change settings and read sensors. theres a bunch of different versions. MegaTune 2.25 717 is one of the recent ones Sensors - MAP - manifold absolute pressure TPS - throttle position sensor IAT/MAT - intake or manifold air temperature CLT - coolant temp sensor VR - variable reluctance - sensor that picks up rpm VE - volumetric effeciency - this is whats changed to get the right air/fuel ratio Fuel Table - this is a 16x16 table(flat top with 4 legs,also like a chart) you can see in MegaTune that holds VE's. its setup with rpm on the bottom and pressure on the side so it will give you a VE for a particular rpm and pressure. this is whats called a speed-density setup Spark Table - same as the fuel table but instead of VE's it has spark advance BTDC(before top dead center)
there is going to be a free response essay quiz on this so you better know it
This is the Wideband that i am going to use for this setup. I called CFT(Central Florida Turbo) and they have it in stock and its $200.00. You get a module that you can mount in the car. Check out this sit for the Wideband and watch the first demo video and that is the wideband and the module.
Once i get that all that is left is the wiring wich lucas should order soon(mased) and the ECU witch is $189.00. So all together it is going to be cheaper than i though. Lets just hope it works good.
Hey if you look back on that site agian it says those are non datalogging models, which makes it pretty lame to tune with. Its good for monitoring but without datalogging its going to be tough to tune right.
Well here is a little update guys, I am waiting for lucas to order the harrness and then from there i am going to wait till after The Mitty to order the rest of the parts. I am looking forward to tomorrow to see jon and talk to him about the little things i need to get. But once i get back from The Mitty i am going to order the ECU and the PXL. From there i should be all set and ready to really get this thing done.