I remember seeing some really cheap wheels at that Wheelhouse place on 60. Probably heavy but they're cheap, definatley under a Ben. The spring shock deal is a tough call. There's got to be a bunch of different shocks you can get since its a Honda. I looked at those shock dynos and its looks like the best ones are the Tein's, Ground Control, Zeal's or Koni's. Thats just what I thought from the dynos, other than that I have no idea. But if you decide to go with height adjustability, you'll be able to adjust your camber too by changing the height.

And for the brakes, since you dont have ABS I would say your best way to stop better would be to just go out and practice locking the brakes up. You know try and keep it right on the threshold between sliding and rolling. After you perfect that, then I would say pads would be next and then maybe new lines but thats proably all you need since you won't get much brake fade unless we start doing some track events.

This is a tough call for us non-honda people.  I say you need to just do your research.  Go to honda-tech and just read.  then go to the places and see how much the crap is.  All i can say is that i like my koni yellows.  It would be pretty sweet to have rebound and dampening adjustability.  Ride height would be cool, but i doubt it would help a whole lot.  the camber thing would be cool for the ride height though since you have decent susp. 

those wheels are hideous.  just get some rotas or something, they're cheap and pretty light. 

do you have 4 wheel discs?  i'd say good pads and maybe some ss lines if you ever start using the car for more than just a daily driver......

get a body kit, a giant carbon fiber spoiler and paint it flat black with the body kit just primered. you'll be the coolest kid on the block!!

and dont forget the neons

"IC can be mounted in the stock 1.8T IC location"
it will work in your car

but that is one nice piece there. I really like those cores. especially how the water flow through them. I think that should definatley be before pistons and rods but suspension first.

well as far as the smaller to bigger I/C piping, I dont understand it. maybe I'll use all that crap I learned in school and figure it out after my calc test anyways.

I've got some of your compressions of you want to throw another one in there. You should really keep them in your car. I didnt give them back did I? a SS feed line I think is a really good idea.

It would be pretty sweet if you tried the DIY a/w intercooler. I'm in for that. Of course that ebay one is really nice too but alot of money. We should tap into your intake air temp sensor and so we can do tests on which is best or how good its working now. Actually your uberdata can datalog that. So you really need to get your datalogging working. Oh yea send me that map that your running. I want to take a look at it.

For the brakes, I busted out that old Grassroots Motorsports and read the part on clutch materials which is about the same. Organic is refered to as being bonded together with organic materials. It doesnt have a real high heat capacity and a medium coeficient of friction. Kevlar has less heat capacity and a lower coeficient of friction but will last a very long time. Metallic has a high coefictent of friction and a high heat capacity and specific heat so it can disperse heat real good but is hard on flywheels or rotors. So semi-metallic seems to be a mix of the good stuff like organic and metallic.

ok for the piping thing. Bust out your ideal gas law equation. PV=nRT (Pressure * Volume = mole number(amount of gas) * R (some stupid constant) * Temperature). Now lets take an example say a half meter section of pipe has diameter of 2 inches which is .0508 meters. So that pipe has a volume of (pi(.0508/2)^2(.5))= 0.0010134 m^3 and pressure of 10psi which converts to 68,947 Pascals. And lets say that this section of pipe is after the turbo so the air is hot umm about 240 F to be exact. Now this gotta go to Kelvin so its 389K. So thats everything you need and you can solve for n. So you get (68947*.001034=n(8.314)389)  n = .02160. If the air then goes through the intercooler and the intercooler is working good then it cools it down to 90 F (305K). Now if this same amount of air (.02160 mols) is on the other side of the intercooler it will have a volume of ((.02160*8.314*305K)/68947) = .0007945 m^3 which is smaller than .0010134 m^3. This is assuming the pressure is the same for both sides which wont be the case. Most likely the pressure and the volume will both drop some. And of course this is a very general example because the air is flowing. There are many more factors with flowing air that I have no clue about but this shows that the volume does get smaller after beeing cooled and you can kinda get the pipe sizes right. Like you would want a 1.77inch pipe after your intercooler if you started with the 2inch pipe and your intercooler worked that good but its at least an approximation.

dang Im a loser but school is easier if find a use for it

why?

do i get an A for effort?

hmm interesting

I'll have to concur about the possibilty for the air to expand and become less dense losing some heat and the air becoming more dense and losing velocity so a larger pipe would compensate for that by adding volume. If you think about exhaust, you want the gas to stay hot so the density stays low and the velocity stays high so I guess if you want the gas to stay cold you've got to increase the volume to keep the same density. Im still not convinced on this yet but theres some good points you made.

I think I might get that Maximum Boost book. Ive still got that Borders gift card